Battle Harbour, Labrador

Battle Harbour was once the salt fish capital of Labrador and today is preserved in the history of that by-gone era. It is a National Historic District of Canada where the history and buildings have been preserved. A local guide will give us an introduction and then let us explore on our own. Norma is hoping to pick up some cough drops for her cold.

We took a zodiac to this preserved village that reminded us of Upper Canada Village near Morrisburg and were told that the tour wouldn't be leaving for a half hour. We set off to the general store to see if they stocked cough drops but it was more of a tourist/gift shop so it will be off to the medical centre this evening. We wandered around a bit and talked to some of the other guests - mainly Australians while we waited. We didn't bring our QuietVox and the tour grew huge in numbers so that if we were at the back, we couldn't hear or see so we struck out on our own. Only the commercial buildings and the church were open - the rest were either private residences or guest houses. We were flabbergasted at the small size of the fishing boats - they weren't much bigger than a row boat. We experienced the Atlantic swells yesterday in a much bigger boat and that was scary. After exploring, we went into the restaurant where we were treated with fish cakes made from fish caught that morning and a homemade mustard pickle. That was followed by a homemade cheese cake served with red berry preserve, a local berry something like a cranberry or a wild blueberry preserve again homemade. Then it was back to the ship via zodiac.

The closing of the cod fishery in 1992 had a profound effect on the people of Newfoundland and Labrador that depended on cod for their livelihoods. Many people moved away. The church in Battle Harbour, the second one built in the province, was beginning to deteriorate but with grants, the few remaining residents decided to restore it and the other buildings. I must say, they have done an excellent job and tourism is now a big industry here.

At all of the places we have visited so far, I am surprised at the number of wild flowers in boom. Yellow Buttercups, various shades of blue and purple Lupins, Cowslips, and others I cannot name. The only drawback is that there is a profusion of Hogwort, though quite beautiful with its white flowers that turn lime green on bright red stocks. It is highly toxic and one must avoid touching it to avoid a severe skin rash.

At lunch we enjoyed a garlic soup and Alaskan King Crab legs. Delicious. We watched one couple devour three heaping plates each stuffing their mouths without a pause. Of course, their gluttony resulted in many guests not being able to enjoy them as the kitchen ran out. We just got back to our room when the phone rang. It was Kim from reception who wanted to tell us how much our thank-you note for thinking of us for the Chef's Table meant to her. Then it was off to the Spa for two quick steams and plunges in the icy pool. And now to bed!

Supper tonight at the Asian restaurant, Koko's.

Comments